Fish Guts and Egg Sacs

Yes, you read that correctly. Fish guts. And egg sacs. Together. In a bowl.

It's called Altang, and it's apparently a pretty popular soup in Korea; although I hadn't heard of it until last weekend.

My friend Jason had invited me to spend the weekend at his house in a village two hours outside of Seoul. "I'm warning you, there's absolutely nothing to do there," he said. "But you have to see what I've been complaining about for the past year."

"With the amount you've complained about it, it better be bad," I replied.

It was.

Mold, no insulation, walls so thin you could hear the Chinese teacher's Skype conversations (the school divided the house into two "apartments") and a shower reminiscent of the one I used on a train in China.

Did I mention the house is on campus? Oh, and that it's an hour away from a coffee shop?

"Well, at least there's a good restaurant down the street," Jason said. "You can try this soup they're famous for: fish guts soup. My co-teachers ordered it for me my first week here."

Jason, if you're reading this, your school is testing you. The accommodation, the village, the soup. Get out now!

Ok, I know I'm being a bit dramatic. The soup wasn't that bad. It's just not something I'd want on my third day in Korea. Well, it's not really something I'd want ever again.

It wasn't the flavor. Give me a spicy fish stew any day. Throw in some bean sprouts, radishes, green onions and straw mushrooms, and I'll lick the bowl. But add some pollock fish innards...

It looked like little brains and testicles floating in a broth of blood. And it tasted just as strange. The fish egg sacs (the things that looked like testicles) were like mealy hot dogs with a thick casing. The intestines (the things that looked like brains) actually reminded me of ramen noodles--pretty tasteless. Both had a strange smell that I still cannot put my finger on.

Jason looked at me, smiling. "I know, it's strange," he said. "But it's something that grows on you. And since this is the nicest restaurant in town, I've had a lot of time to get used to the taste."

All I have to say is, good luck to you, Jason. And congratulations for surviving a year in that village.

Jennifer Cooks: Dakdoritang (닭도리탕)

I'm off the crutches and in the mood to cook! I found a really easy Dakdoritang (닭도리탕) recipe on seouleats.com and decided to make it last night. Daktdoritang is basically a really spicy chicken stew, perfect for heating your body on a cold winter night, or for clearing out your sinuses.

Here's the recipe so you can try it yourself:


Ingredients

(Yield: 4 Servings)

* 8 chicken pieces (thighs, breasts or drumsticks are best)
* 4 medium sized potatoes
* 2 onions
* 1 carrot
* 2 jalapenos (optional)
* 2 tbsp minced garlic
* 2 tbsp gochujang (hot pepper paste)
* 2 tbsp gochugaru (red pepper flakes)
* 2 tbsp soy sauce
* 1 tsp sugar
* 2 tsp sesame oil
* 2 green onions
* 1 tbsp ginger
* 2 cups of water
* Salt and pepper


Cooking Directions

1. Peel potatoes and cut them in half. Then cut each half into four quarters (8 pieces)
2. Cut onions the same way as the potatoes
3. Peel carrot and cut it into lengths about the same size as its width. Cut each slice into four quarters
4. Slice jalapenos (optional)
5. In a heavy pot, combine all ingredients except green onions
6. Cover and cook for 30-40 minutes over a medium flame
7. Sprinkle salt and pepper to taste
8. Chop and add scallions to simmer for 5 additional minutes
9. Serve hot with rice (This is optional. I personally think the potatoes offer enough starch.)

Enjoy!

Comfort Soups

A broken ankle, snow on the ground, facebook status updates on various Christmas activities. A year and four months in Korea, and I'm really missing home. Thankfully, I know just what to do (or eat) when the homesickness strikes: Budae Jjigae and Samgyetang.

Budae jjigae, also known as army base stew, became popular after the Korean War. Quality meats were hard to find, so to make due, Koreans started using surplus foods from the U.S. Army bases, such as hot dogs and Spam, and incorporating them into a traditional spicy soup seasoned with red chili paste and kimchi. Today, the stew is still very popular and includes anything from instant ramen noodles, ground beef, onions, tteok (rice cake), chili peppers, tofu, garlic, mushrooms, zucchini and cabbage. It's like what we Americans call "everything but the kitchen sink soup," but better.

I was actually appalled at myself for liking this dish. I mean, for God's sake, it has Spam and hot dogs in it. But there's something about the way the salty meats mix with the fiery chili broth and seasonal vegetables that makes me unbutton my pants for more.

Then there's Samgyetang, the Korean's take on chicken soup. Rich, tender chicken in a salty broth--very similar to the American staple, although its appearance could scare off a few non-adventurous eaters. A whole young chicken stuffed with glutinous rice in a bubbling broth of Korean ginseng, dried jujube berries, chestnuts, garlic and ginger comes to your table in individual pots. The server gives you a small pitcher of ginseng wine and a small trash can for the bones. (Sidenote: Do not eat Samgyetang on a first date...or the sixth date for that matter. Spitting out bones while sweating out ginseng is not becoming.) Think chicken and rice soup, only made by a Korean Emeril Lagasse. They have really kicked it up a notch. Seriously, I would bathe in this stuff.

Traditionally, Samgyetang is served in the summer months for its nutritive properties, replacing those lost through excessive sweating. And according the last Korean man I dated, most Koreans enjoy the soup on three days a year--the hottest days in summer. Never taking anyone's word for anything, I googled it. And according to the all-knowing Internet, the three hottest days of the year even have names: Chobok (초복), Jungbok (중복) and Malbok (말복).

But I don't care. Let the Koreans sweat it out in the summer. I'm completely fine with being the stupid blond girl, stuffing her face with a whole young chicken, wearing a cast, in the corner, by herself, watching the snow fall out the window. This is the holiday season after all.