And the eating begins...well, sort of.

Fully prepared to start checking off the items on my Korean Food Bucket List, I set off last Sunday with my friend Jason and a piece of paper. I had written down a few dishes I thought I could easily find in my neighborhood. But after walking around for 20 minutes, I realized why I hadn't checked them off sooner. I definitely need to do a bit more prep work.

Tired of hearing my California-blooded pal moaning about the cold, I called off my quest and settled for a new restaurant called "The Meat Tree." It was traditional Korean dining meets New York butcher shop--various cuts of beef and pork neatly displayed behind a glass case in the back, and heated floors with mats waiting for you after you made your selection. We were in meat heaven.

I ordered galbitang (갈비탕), a slow-simmered beef short rib soup. Jason had a thicker, spicier variety. Both were rich, delicious and exactly what we (especially him) needed on a cold autumn day.


Before moving to Korea, I would have never considered going to a restaurant and ordering soup. In fact, if I did, I'd probably have a bit of my server's saliva mixed with it. However, since any meal in Korea is served with a variety of side dishes and rice, soups have become a staple in Korean cuisine. Soups are known as guk (국) and tang (탕), while Jjigae (찌개) refers to a wide variety of stews. There are easily 30 soups and stews that are well known and eaten regularly in Korea. I have no idea of the number that actually exist.

I don't know how much I'll miss eating rice for every meal, or having some sort of tiny fish or octopus in nearly everything I eat, but I will definitely miss ordering a big bowl of soup for dinner. At a restaurant. For less than five dollars.

Tea Time

Every so often, the lights of the big city get too bright, the cars too loud and the people too rude. Lucky for me, there are a few groups of people (meetup.com) who are always looking to get away.

Last weekend, about 35 foreigners and I took a 5-hour bus ride to Naejangsan--a mountain south of Seoul, known for its beautiful fall foliage. We spent most of Saturday hiking the mountain, then headed to Nagan Folk Village to spend the night in traditional Korean huts.The village was amazing, and so were the people. But sleeping on the floor, even after a year and some-odd months doing it, left something to be desired.

The next day, we visited a nearby green tea farm to pick flowers and drink tea. We also learned how to properly serve and drink the beverage, then took turns pressing and drying the leaves. As a reward, we got a box of loose leaf tea, a bag of green tea flowers and a big bowl of green tea bibimbap.Afterwards, we purchased green tea ice cream and an assortment of rice cakes and cookies for the ride home.

It was a good weekend.




Picking green tea flowers.

Some of my hard work.

The green tea leaves we pressed into shapes to dry.

Green tea bibimbap.

Korean Food Challenge

During a severe procrastination spell, I stumbled upon zenkimchi.com's article "100 Korean Foods You Gotta Try in Your Lifetime." I took it as fate--a challenge to take on during my remaining four months in Seoul. I've pasted the list below, and will be posting my progress. I've currently tried 83 out of the 100 dishes listed, and have marked my "Korean Food Bucket List" with asterisks. I'm saving the dog soup for last...or, I might have to settle for 99/100.


1. Myeolchi Bokkeum (Stir-fried Anchovies)
2. Samgyetang (Ginseng Chicken Soup)
3. Bulgogi (Grilled Marinated Beef)
4. BulDalk (Burn-your-pants-off Spicy Grilled Chicken)
5. DalkBal (Spicy Chicken Feet)*
6. Korean Fried Chicken
7. Dalk Galbi (Stir-fried Marinated Chicken and Veggies)
8. San Nakji, chopped (Semi-live Baby Octopus)*
9. San Nakji, whole (Live Octopus)*
10. Sundubu Jjigae (Soft Tofu Stew)
11. Juk (Rice Porridge)
12. Galbi (Grilled Short Ribs)
13. Galbitang (Short Rib Soup)
14. Shinseollo (Fancy Hot Pot)*
15. Gobchang Gui (Grilled Beef Intestines)
16. Seng Gan (Raw Beef Liver)*
17. Galbi Jjim (Stewed Ribs)
18. Bossam (Steamed Marinated Pork with Lettuce Wraps)
19. Japchae (Clear Noodles Stir-fried with Pork and Vegetables)
20. Jaeyuk Bokkeum (Spicy Stir-fried Pork)
21. Kimchi Jjim (Braised Kimchi with Tofu)
22. Ddong Jip (Chicken Gizzards)
23. Odeng/Eomuk (Street-side Fish Noodles)
24. Hoddeok (Stuffed Street-side Pastries)
25. GeiJang (Raw Fermented Crabs)*
26. Hongeo (Fermented Skate)*
27. Gochujang Samgyeopsal (Grilled Pork Belly Smothered in Red Pepper Paste)
28. Lotteria’s Shrimp Burger
29. Sae-u Kang (Shrimp Flavored “Fries”)
30. Doenjang Jjigae (Fermented Bean Paste Stew)
31. Cheonggukjang (Stinky Fermented Bean Paste Stew)
32. Boshintang (Dog Soup)*
33. Seonji Haejangguk (Hangover Stew with Clotted Cow Blood)*
34. Ddeokbokki (Chewy Rice Cakes in Spicy Sauce)
35. YukHui (Korea’s Steak Tartare)
36. MiyeokGuk (Seaweed Soup)
37. Mae-eunTang (Spicy Fish Soup)
38. Nakji Bokkeum (Stir-fried Baby Octopus)
39. Mareun Ojingeo (Dried Cuttlefish)
40. Beondaeggi (Silkworm Larvae)
41. Golbaenggi (Sea Snails)
42. Jangeo Gui (Grilled Eel)
43. Jaratang (Turtle Soup)*
44. Bog-eo (Blowfish)*
45. Sae-u Sogeum Gui (Salt Grilled Shrimp)
46. Deodeok Root*
47. Bindae Ddeok (Mung Bean Pancake)
48. Pajeon (Green Onion Pancake)
49. Bibimbap (Mixed Rice and Vegetables)
50. Boribap (Mixed Barley Rice and Vegetables)
51. Jjim Dalk (Braised Chicken)
52. Patbingsu (Shaved Ice and Red Bean Treat)
53. Dotorimok (Acorn Jelly)
54. Naengmyeon (Chilled Noodles)
55. Makkoli/Dongdongju (Rice Beer)
56. Bokbunja (Raspberry Wine)
57. Soju (Rice Whiskey)
58. Andong Soju (Strong Rice Whiskey from the Andong Region)
59. Jogae Gui (Grilled Shellfish)
60. Haepari (Jellyfish)
61. Gyeran Jjim (Steamed Egg)
62. Corn Ice Cream
63. Dolsot Bibimbap (Mixed Rice and Vegetables in a Sizzling Stone Pot)
64. Mandu (Stuffed Dumplings)
65. Ddeokguk (Chewy Rice Cake Soup)
66. Songpyeon (Stuffed Chewy Rice Cakes)
67. Hot Bar (Fried Fish Batter Street Food)
68. Shikhye (Sweet Rice Punch)
69. Any product with Green Tea in it
70. Gujeolpan (Nine-sectioned Dish)
71. Yogurt Soju Cocktail
72. Baechu Kimchi (Cabbage Kimchi)
73. Any Kimchi that’s over 3 years old
74. Baek Kimchi (White Cabbage Kimchi)
75. Shake-’em-up Dosirak ( rice,dried seaweed, vegetables, chili paste and an egg)
76. Mul Kimchi (Water Kimchi)
77. Oi Sobagi (Stuffed Cucumber Kimchi)
78. Ggakdugi (Cubed Radish Kimchi)
79. Sae-u Jeot (Salted Tiny Shrimp)
80. Myeongran Jeot (Salted Pollack Roe)
81. Changran Jeot (Salted Pollack Guts)*
82. Ssamjang (Mixed Soybean and Pepper Paste)
83. Kalguksu (Hand-cut Noodle Soup)*
84. Ramyeon (Ramen Noodles) in a Tin Pot
85. Entire Hui Meal (Korean style Sashimi)
86. Gimbap (Seaweed Rice Rolls)
87. Jokbal (Pigs Feet)*
88. Sundae (Blood and Noodle Sausage)
89. Yeot (Traditional Korean Candy)
90. Naengi (Shepherd’s Purse sprouts)
91. Kimchi Jjigae (Kimchi Stew)
92. Budae Jjigae (“Army Base” Stew, traditionally including hot dogs and Spam)
93. Agu Jjim (Stewed Monkfish)
94. Haemultang (Seafood Soup)
95. Nurungji (Hot Water Mixed with Rice Scrapings in a Stone Pot)
96. Sujebi (Rustic dough flake soup)*
97. Janchi Guksu (Thin Noodles in a Seaweed Broth with Condiments)
98. BungeoBbang (Goldfish-shaped Stuffed Pastry)
99. Raw Ginseng or anything with Ginseng in it
100. MulHui (Chilled Sashimi Soup)*

HOGen-Dazs

I was good all week. Veggie omelettes for breakfast, chicken salads for lunch, fish for dinner. Come Sunday, I’d had enough.

All it took was two glasses of wine and the mention of chocolate, and next thing I knew, I was sitting at the Häagen-Dazs café in Hongdae, staring at an enormous plate of bite-sized cheesecake, brownies, fruit, and a full sampling of the ice cream chain’s most popular flavors. And as if this weren’t decadent enough, it was served alongside a giant bowl of melted chocolate.

It’s called “Sweet Fondue,” costs 30,000 won ($26), and instantly adds about 2-inches to your waistline.

*May not be available in the States.

Japan: Eat 'Til You Drop

Any culture celebrating some form of excess has a phrase to go along with it. In America, a country of consumers, it’s “shop ‘til you drop.” In Korea, a country of alcoholics and binge drinkers, it’s “drink ‘til you die.” And in Osaka, Japan, a town full of hard-working foodies, it’s “eat ‘til you fall down.”

Kuidaore, a phrase derived from the proverb, “dress (in kimonos) ‘til you drop in Kyoto, eat ‘til you drop in Osaka,” has become synonymous with the Japanese metropolis. It’s not uncommon for a businessman to spend all his earnings on food, nor to eat at three different restaurants in one night.

In fact, this is exactly what I did. And it’s exactly why I’m typing this wearing sweatpants and an oversized t-shirt.

Takoyaki (octopus dumplings), yakitori (grilled chicken parts), sushi, sashimi, udon and ramen. Soba, tempura and Okonomiyaki (a Japanese pancake containing anything from red ginger to bacon, topped with brown sauce, mayonnaise and bonito flakes). To say that Osaka (and Kyoto) had good food would be like saying the Louvre in Paris has some decent art on its walls.

Six days, five pounds on my ass. Totally worth it.


First meal in Kyoto: Yakitori.


Grilled chicken leg and chicken livers.


The yakitori chef's recommendation: chicken neck. Delicious!


The yakitori chef and me closing the restaurant down. He took me on a date the next night!


The soba noodles Tai Chi (the chef) tried to teach me how to slurp...I failed miserably.


The best sashimi I've ever had.



REAL ramen noodles are boiled egg noodles, not that fried shit you get in a bag with flavored powder. These came in a thick, rich pork broth with thin slices of pork on top.


My third meal of the night: eight plates of sushi!


An assortment of tempura.


Kushikatsu=basically anything you want, fried on a stick.



Homemade udon noodles wrapped in Kobe Beef=orgasm on a stick.


Yet another dish on a stick...this time? Octopus with a quail egg stuffed in its head. Not my favorite.


Pickled everything.


I went to a restaurant and pointed to four things on the menu. Since I can't read Japanese, I hoped for the best. One of the highlights: a soft-boiled egg.



Green tea ice cream was the perfect way to beat the heat. And it was available everywhere.


Outside a temple, okonomiyaki was being cooked and served by a high school boy.


The name "okonomiyaki" is derived from the word okonomi, meaning "what you like" or "what you want", and yaki meaning "grilled" or "cooked."


Osaka's famed Dotonbori Street.


Takoyaki, Japanese dumplings made of batter, diced octopus, tempura scraps, pickled ginger and green onion, topped with okonomiyaki sauce, ponzu, mayonnaise and fish shavings.


So hot.


Once I regained feeling in my mouth, I was able to conclude that these hot octopus balls were worth my trip to Osaka.


On my last night, in my fourth restaurant in Osaka, I met two 50-year-old Japanese businessmen. Although they didn't speak any English, our shared passion for Kuidaore led us to hours of eating and drinking. They even paid the bill.

The guide books were right: Great food, and even greater people.

A Chewy Chuseok

To celebrate Chuseok, Korea's harvest festival, my students attended school wearing traditional Korean clothes. They also made a traditional Chuseok treat called songpyeon, which is glutinous rice dough (tteok), filled with different kinds of sweet fillings. Today we used sesame seeds, sugar and beans. They came out very chewy, slightly sweet, and very sticky!

I Heart E-Mart

There are few places to find foreign goods in Seoul: the Foreign Food Mart in Itaewon (a glorified Middle Eastern grocery store), Homeplus (think Korean Walmart), Costco (the same as in the states, but different) and E-Mart (Korean Target). To know which one to go to for which item takes time. Lucky for me, I've been scouring Seoul's markets for a year now; so when my craving for whole wheat bagels and cream cheese hit late Monday afternoon, I knew my only option was E-Mart.

To my great surprise, I discovered smoked salmon in the fish section. Then, capers. And beautiful cherry tomatoes for 2,000 won. I hadn't had lox and bagel since I paid $15 for it at a New York brunch restaurant in Itaewon months ago. It was time.

Crunchy warm bagel, rich cream cheese, delicate peppered salmon, juicy tomatoes, salty capers...I was making sounds that should never come from a kitchen...that is, when you share the kitchen with three roommates.

I should warn them that I bought three packages of salmon.