I've started writing for The City Paper in Bogotá. Here's my latest story:
My friends below looked like miniature action figures as I tightened
my grip on a sharp, protruding rock.
“That's it, you're almost there!”
shouted my climbing instructor, Hugo
Rocha.
Almost
there? Is he kidding?
“I think
I'm fine to come down now!” I yelled. But Hugo ignored me. “Focus
on your feet and push with your legs. You have this, Jennifer!”
Grunting
a string of obscenities, I looked for the next groove to place my right
foot. Then my left. My fingers trembled as I reached toward the sky.
I thought
I'd be better at this. I had scaled the man-made rock-climbing wall
at the gym in record time. I had hiked Cerro Fitz Roy over Christmas
vacation. I was even halfway through the aptly named Insanity workout
DVDs.
But nothing
prepared me for the emotion and eventual exhilaration I felt climbing
straight up 125 meters, relying on a rope for survival.
Hugo Rocha
thrives on that feeling. He does it every day.
“To be
in nature,” he says, “with a wall in front of you…to get to the
top without falling…it's nice in the end.”
He's right,
although you couldn't have convinced me of that half way up the rock.
But after finally reaching the top, I understood the reward as I scanned
the green landscape and listened to the cheers from below.
I found
Hugo's name while reading in the Lonely Planet about Suesca, a sleepy
town about an hour from Bogotá. The short blurb said Hugo was reliable
to conduct inexpensive half-day and full-day rock climbing excursions.
It ought
to be easy to round up some fellow adventurers, I figured. Wrong. Fellow
workers ignored my email, so I posted a Facebook status. Only one person
responded, and I had only met her once. She said she would bring two
friends. They had all grown up near Bogotá but had never been to the
village, never been rock-climbing.
Hugo, in
contrast, spent his youth in Bogotá and scaled trees and roofs routinely
before moving to Suesca 12 years ago. He had been an industrial design
major in college, but left the city life to explore the 400 different
climbing routes. He even met his girlfriend while climbing.
“If a
climber is traveling in Colombia, they're going to pass through Suesca,”
he said.
For the
novice looking for a weekend adventure, making it to the top is the
obvious goal. But for me, the experience offered so much more - a bonding
friendship. After three climbs, we headed to a nearby tienda and celebrated
over beers. Filled with a sense of accomplishment, we drank, danced
and cartwheeled in the sun while Hugo packed up the equipment.
Our bodies
sore, our hands scratched, we made the quick trip back to Bogotá, satisfied
that from a sky-high vantage point, we had broadened our horizon.
Some Suesca facts: Rock climbing costs $60,000 pesos per person for a half day or $120,000 for a full day. Buses to Suesca depart from the TransMilenio Portal Norte on the Autopista. A one-way ticket costs 7,000 pesos. To join Hugo Rocho on the ropes, contact him: deaventuraporcolombia@yahoo.com